Dispatch from Albania # 6 Nov. 21, 1999

From: Cdcphotog@aol.com
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 11:53:44 EST
Subject: #6 fr Albania
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: undisclosed-recipients:;

Dispatch from Albania # 6 Nov. 21, 1999 (Just got connected; sending Dec. 3
or 4 from Spello, Italy)

Slept till nearly noon, then out to lunch we went with Shep who is an old
West Point professor, CIA (maybe), linguist, Harley rider, author of TALES OF
A NEW HOG RIDER, written on his laptop when he crossed the United States, and
now an IRC staffer. Beautiful day. We walked everywhere. Talked about Albania
and life in general, while we ate potatoes, eggs, coffee, and Pepsis afloat
with thin slices of lemon.

Kathy has the biggest appetite Iíve ever seen. Marybelle, she beats the truck
drivers we saw in Alabama. And sheís slimmmmm! Sheís one of those
triathaloners who once upon a time swam from Alcatraz to San Francisco, ran 2
miles, biked 15, and ran another 8, so living 2 months in Albania is no
challenge for her.

Saw on streets:
*Families strolling
*Mafia selling German cars and Italian suits
*Soldiers guarding the Presidentís home (and you better not look or linger
there)
*Vendors selling potatoes, eggs, tangerines, celery, parsley, paprika,
pomegranates, oregano, bananas, & toys, used appliances, furniture, tile,
linoleum, girlie cards, all sorts of clothing except underwear which Iíve
only seen in indoor shops. Padded, lacy and revealing bras seem to be big
business here.
*More vendors sitting by their tiny fires selling grilled chestnuts and corn
on the cob
*Many car wash ìshopsî consisting of a sign, LAVAHO, a hose, a few men, and
a rag or two
*Bright, white wedding dresses displayed in several shop windows

Back to IRC office. Doing e-mail is major production, esp. with a Macintosh
and with AOL. Have found only one line in all of Tirana that goes to US. Was
finally able to send Robin 5 ìdispatchesî to forward to you. But I wonít be
able to receive any messages. Darn!

Boyd, our apartment mate and IRCís Director of Security, came home full of
stories about his work here and his life back in Australia. He runs a
security business that teaches people how to protect other people and that
provides protection to some who need it, e.g., rock stars. Was in Australiaís
Infantry Something which is equivalent to the Green Berets. Looks like a
tough guy but has a warm, sensitive heart. Cares deeply for Albania to get
out of its impoverished position and gain respect in the world community.
Also has been stabbed twice. (Showed us his scars right over his rib cage.
Said he wasnít stabbed but ìsliced.î) Explained some of the complexities of a
group like the International Rescue Committee that goes in, tries to hire and
engage the Nationals. But in this country, they often are loyal to their
friends in the Mafia, so the Mafia always knows whatís going on here. They
know how much the cash flow is and where the money is stored. Therefore, Boyd
has to move IRCís $ around every week. Recently he was followed on foot by 3
Mafia with their slightly-hidden guns. When I asked what he did, I believe he
said, ìI changed direction & walked toward them. They were confused & left me
alone.î He was lucky, Iíd say.

Weep-of-day: Small boys smoking
Smile-of-day: Most people speak with soft voices ... and
Although you hear many little toots of car horns, Iíve seen no
evidence of road rage
Love,
Carolyn

PS: about previous messages:
(1) The statue I spoke of in the heart of Tirana is Scanderbeg who is a
national hero because in the 15th century he rebelled against Ottoman Empire
(We donít say Turks) for 25 years and lost but inspired ìmany brave (if
hopeless) Albanian acts of resistance against the Turkish sultanate.î
(2) The bunkers were built during terrible Hoxha regime (1945-1985) to
provide protection from invasion by any outsiders. They are now falling
apart, turned over, stuffed with garbage, or covered by foliage. Children
sometimes use them as slides or for King of the Mountain games.

Individual messages:
Bob in Henderson: Got your e-mail which goes directly to the Bossís computer!
Nevertheless, I love it that you had to use the computer at the Methodist
Church to send it. Will try to reply directly but might not be able. May try
to phone you, but thatís difficult, too, because only cell phones connect and
IRC has just 4. I started to buy one and donate to IRC when I leave, but they
cost at least $1300 each. So much for that idea.


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