Dispatch from Albania # 13 Nov. 28, 1999

From: Cdcphotog@aol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 10:53:03 EST
Subject: Message #13 fr Albania
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: undisclosed-recipients:;

Dispatch from Albania # 13 Sunday, Nov. 28, 1999

This morning off we went to Durres on this, Albaniaís national holiday* to
photograph water. More later on that. Another long day driving backroads,
maneuvering around potholes, dodging cows, sheep, people, children, donkeys,
two-wheeled carts, three-wheeled carts, four-wheeled carts, Vespas, bikes,
dogs, cats (saw only one hit), and 2 pigs. The chickens and turkeys were
handheld on their way to market. Had to use the 4-wheel drive part of the car
twice. Photographed the mayor of a small village who insisted we take his
picture in front of his nice home with all his children and one of his wives.
He was quite handsome and full of himself, probably Mafia.

Arrived back at apartment to find that our dear Security Guy Boyd had been
hi-jacked on his way back from Kosovo. He hadnít told us. He was watching
World War II movies when we returned. But the phone rang and somebody told
Kathy the story that Boyd had been on TV because he had been robbed at
gunpoint in some place that is known as very dangerous: Lac in northern
Albania. Robbers took several computers from his car, but they didnít take
the kitty! Darn! Anyway, embarrassed Boyd is back in Tirana, now out at a
party celebrating something or other. [Note: one of the IRC uppers called the
Lac chief-of-police and got everything back within an hour. Call that what
you will. Corruption? Cahoots? Connections?]

Strange how Iím now counting the hours till I can fly away from this sad
place. Mainly because itís hard to make a dent in anything going on.
Everything seems so hopeless. Even our IRC drivers think Kathy and I are
wasting money by using so much film for photographie. Today feels like a
lose-lose situation, except I think we got some good photographs for IRCís
brochure which, bottom line, is being produced to raise funds for Albania.

Love,
Carolyn

*National Holiday = liberation at end of WWII and beginning of Communist
regime. Liberation?

Individual messages:
Loretta: I took all your advice: Donít carry much money on me; take bottled
water everywhere; blend in with the people by wearing unnoticeable clothes
(but Lands End and REI stuff somehow say AMERICANO); check with people before
photographing; take no chances, especially with soldiers, although I really
wanted to photograph a small guy with an enormous bazooka-looking gun and two
bandoliers of bullets hanging down to his knees, but remembered what you said.

George P: Do you think you or I might approach ìPî Johnson about underwriting
the photography for this brochure? Since he cares about Albania, he might be
willing to come up with the $2,000 for film, processing, proofs, and prints.
Iíll call you from Italy.

Mom: Iíll be safely in Rome before you get this message via your church, and
I hope to elaborate later on some of the specific events and national issues.
Iím just so tired at the end of each day I can barely think. Iím surprised at
the level of tension a place like this engenders. Not only pressure to get
pictures, the right pictures, the right places, the right expressions on
faces, the right background, the right exposure, and talk to the Albanians
weíre working with, not be an UGLY AMERICAN, & talk, & talk, & talk. And
communicate about what is wanted in the 24-page brochure. Mostly, talk is
what is exhausting, as youíve always told me. But we both know that you and I
thrive on conversation when weíre in the mood.



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