Dispatch from Albania # 12 Nov. 27, 1999
From: Cdcphotog@aol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 10:52:01 EST
Subject: #12 fr Albania
MIME-Version: 1.0

Dispatch from Albania # 12 Saturday, Nov. 27, 1999

[Written a few days later, so I really donít remember a lot.]

A long, scary day. Drove 3 hours through ruts from Fier south to Gjirokaster,
a town where the Mafia has claimed a whole section for itself. We were
advised not to go there, and sure enough, I think our driver unknowingly took
us straight to the heart of that area! We were looking for a stone house
(different from the brick and stucco homes in the rest of the country) for
Kathyís brochure cover to convey hospitality.

Drove up narrow, stone streets with people, no, men only, standing on the
sidewalks and spilling into the streets. Came to a chained-off street, and I
mean CHAINED. Parked our Land Rover and got out. I was on the sidewalk
photographing a 3 ft-high neatly made tower of cigarette cartons (for Kathyís
section on tobacco) when I heard a horn blasting away. Looked up & saw a
large Mercedes racing down the street. It rounded our corner. I jumped close
to the building, but Kathy and Elton were standing in the street, waiting to
cross. Driven by a twenty-something young man, the Mercedes zoomed up to the
chain, stopped a nano second, backed up one foot, then charged ahead,
snapping the chain and scattering people like flying feathers. Thank goodness
Kathy is slim, because she flattened her body against the Land Rover while
Elton dashed behind it. I would say the Mercedes brushed within 2-3 inches of
her. (She corrects me: ìSix.î) I get queasy even describing it! But we were
all safe, and after asking what that was all about and learning nothing, we
walked up the hill to find the stone house.

Found several houses that seemed right and had fun photographing the pleasant
and cooperative families in front of their homes except....At the second
house, Kathy saw a donkey walking by and thought it should be in the picture.
Fearless person that she is, she tried to guide it to the front gate, but no.
As it trotted past her, you guessed right: it kicked her. Fortunately, oh so
fortunately, she was carrying my big fat Sportsac purse, and its hoof landed
right in the middle. The thud sounded just like a broken bone, but Kathy
proudly announced its foot didnít touch her, only hit the purse. And Iím
trying to save its muddy mark to prove it to you. Kathy didnít miss a beat
and continued her job, arranging people for the photograph.

Between a Mercedes and a mule, I think sheís had a big, nearly bad day.

Carolyn

Good Grief, I know my editor friends are saying, ìWas it a donkey or a mule?î
I donít know. I've never been able to get them straight.


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